October 22:
Like any given Thursday… I flashed my annual pass to the
sweet old man at the front gate of Oak Mountain State Park, smiled and turned up
my music as I drove away. The only difference between this day and any other day
was the music selection. I have had one standing birthday tradition that I’ve
held true to since my 19th birthday. Every year since 2004… I have
listened to the same song on my birthday. I was introduced to the Senses Fail song “Irony
of Dying on Your Birthday” on my actual birthday during my freshmen year of
college and throughout that cool October day… I listened to it 6 times. Every
birthday since… I have literally played “IODOYB” 6 times on each of my special
days. I will not play it any other time or any other day outside of those
24hrs… mainly because it’s not all that great of a song. Regardless… it is my
birthday tradition… and I shall continue it for the remainder of my lifespan.
I pulled into the gravel parking lot of the North Trail Head
as I wrapped up the 5th playing of my birthday song. I slid on
my Salomon’s and started stuffing my Mountain Hardwear vest with a few pale ales from Oskar
Blues. I planned on a quick jaunt up to King’s Chair to sit alone on the cliff
side and toast the sky. My old college buddy (Logan) pulled up about the time I
started strapping on my vest. The last time I saw him was a few months back when
he was hammocking up near King’s Chair. I tossed him a beer and told him I’d be
up at King’s Chair having a few birthday brews if he wanted to join.
The day was perfect. Cool, breezy weather allowed for a hard
effort up to King’s Chair. I was alone when I got to the top. I sat down on the
ledge, popped the top to my Dale’s Pale Ale, sat in silence and reflected on my
many blessings. Trails and ales… not
much better…
The silence was broken about halfway through my first beer
when Logan joined the cliff side party. We toasted to another year and carried
on an enjoyable conversation. Sunlight still illuminated the valley below as I
cracked open my second beer. By this time another hiker had joined the party.
Though I know not his name… I see him regularly on the trail and we always
share a smile and a simple “hi.” Shadows had started creeping through the
valley, so we decided to head back down to the trail head. I was in no rush to
get back down, so Logan and I started back down the mountain together. The
hiker stopped me before I left the ledge, extended his hand and in broken
English wished me a happy birthday.
By the time we got to the Red/Blue connector the woods were
almost black. Logan pulled out his headlamp with a mile or so to go. I hadn’t
packed one but my eyes had adjusted to the dim light and made for a peaceful
final mile.
I came home to a
sweet birthday set up from my wifey. I blew out my candles with tears in my
eyes. I was just so overwhelmed and thankful for everything I have in my life.
After a quick shower… we packed up the car and headed to finish the birthday
celebration with some good friends at Buffalo Wild Wings.
October 23
I knew it was going to be a long day the moment I was
awakened with a loud meowy head boop from Wobbles. Ugh. Lack of sleep and tooooooooo
many beers. I spent most of the work day debating making a trip to the
mountains. Weeks prior I had planned to do a birthday getaway to the mountains
with a few friends to camp, run and celebrate. Those plans deteriorated after
having to let a calf strain heal after the
StumpJump 50k. I didn’t really think too much about it or mention
to anyone else because I just didn’t foresee the trip happening… but when my
sweet parents sent me a birthday card with some gas money… the trip was put
into play again.
After work I headed home and started packing up Hotel de
Andrews for the trip.
I hung around the house and had dinner with Kati until she
had to leave for work at 630pm. I then began the looooooooooooooooooooong,
boring, lonely drive up to my destination. 6.5hrs later I arrived at Carver’s
Gap. The parking lot was packed! My legs were tight from the drive, so I
decided to do a short moonlit hike before turning in. At 5500ft… the night was
cool, the winds were high and the moon was bright enough where I didn’t need my
headtorch to see the trail. After I wrapped up my 45min hike… I curled up in my
sleeping bag. 230am. Gross. I set my alarm and drifted off to the howling winds
outside.
October 24
First alarm: 4:30am = Hell no.
Second alarm: 5:15am = Ugh.
I peeked out window. It was still dark… the wind was still howling… and
there was no sign of any movement. Maybe just a few more minutes…
Third alarm: 6:00am = “Do you really need to see the sun
rise?”
By my third alarm I had made up my mind that I desperately
needed sleep to enjoy my day full of adventure. I turned off all alarms and was
just going to sleep however long my body let me. However… the people slamming
car doors next to me became my fourth and final alarm at 6:37am. I crawled out
of my sleeping bag and started packing my INOV8 vest with everything I would
need for the traverse. I sloppily made a
peanut butter sandwich and sat in the dark munching on it with my eyes closed. I
was just so damn tired. I eventually surfaced from the comfort of my car and
stepped out into a chilly North Carolina morning. The wind made it cold enough
for a light jacket and gloves and I figured I’d probably need them to warm back
up after hanging out on the balds.
Though I really didn’t need it… I turned on my headtorch
and headed onto the Appalachian Trail heading northbound to US
19E. The sun was set to rise around 7:45am and I had finally got started at
7:15am. The out and back would be close to 30 miles round trip. I had no certain finish time in mind… I simply wanted to enjoy a
section of the Appalachian Mountains that I had wanted to run for years.
The initial trail up Round Bald consisted of mostly crushed
gravel and wooden steps. I had already passed several hikers that were making
their way up to the balds for sunrise. I figured the first few miles would bring
many “good morning” exchanges… and I was right. There was a decent size group
already on top of Round Bald enjoying the morning glow. I quickly descended off
Round Bald and headed towards the next. A short climb later landed me on top
of Jane Bald at 5800ft. By this time… the sun was revealing an absolutely
breathtaking view of the cloud inversion below…
I tucked my headtorch in my vest and descended Jane Bald…
trying my best to concentrate on my footing instead of the glowing, low hanging
clouds in the distance. I ran alongside 4 deer for a few moments before they
darted off into the distance. There’s just something magical and primal about
moving alongside something wild…
I started the 500ft
climb up to Grassy Ridge Bald. The Appalachian Trail actually veers off left
but if you want to hit the Grassy Ridge Bald summit you have to take a spur
trail for a short out and back. As soon I started creeping over 6000ft I was in
the clouds. I hung out on the summit for a bit hoping the clouds would lift and
pass along a view. While I waited… I read… and was disappointed… 
Thankfully the clouds were moving quickly and eventually
revealed the distant mountains…
I retraced my steps down Grassy Ridge Bald and continued
northbound along the AT. Shortly after I hopped back on the AT I hit the tree
line and dove into a beautiful leaf covered single track.
I passed Stan Murray shelter and waved “good morning” to a
few backpackers. Shortly after the shelter I passed a big group of backpackers
comprised of mostly teenagers. Again I shot a quick wave and continued along
the trail…
The surrounding mountains played peek-a-boo with me all
morning…
I hit the gap with the spur trail leading to the
Overmountain Shelter and started the short but sweet climb to the top. I took
off my gloves and light North Face jacket and tucked them away. The
clouds had dissipated by the time I popped out of the tree line in route to
Little Hump.
The cloud inversion was still consuming the valley down to
my right…
I stopped on a rock cropping off Little Hump to take in the
view and down a gel.
The wind had picked up and I was getting chilly… so I put on
my gloves before heading out.
The south side of Little Hump was still clear with beautiful
views so I was excited to get up and over to see the trail leading up Big Hump.
My excitement quickly faded as I topped Little Hump and was engulfed in the
greyness. The clouds lifted as I
descended into a short wooded section but I was right back in the fog the
moment I exited the canopy. I felt the topography shift upwards which indicated
the beginning of my climb up Big Hump. I passed a bearded fellow as I steadily
humped my way to the top.
The trail eventually leveled out and the scene turned eerie.
I no longer felt like I was on planet Earth. I was now traversing the grassy
mountains on Planet Baldia which resides in the Z Galaxy.
Before I really knew what was happening… I had created an
entire world. I had named villages, discussed the details of the land’s
topography and weather with myself. I even had a best friend who would take
running adventures with me…. a cat… named Wobbletron (who had 3 regular legs
and one bionic leg).
I eventually teleported back to my home planet when I
descended out of the clouds and back into the woods.
The trail became rocky and technical as I made my way
towards the Doll Flats. I wore my Salomon S-Lab Sense 4’s for the traverse, but
I think when I come back to run it again… I’ll where something a little more
padded (Sense Pro/Speedcross maybe?).
I passed a few backpackers along this section and eventually came across
a wooden “Doll Flats” sign.
Thankfully there was a break in the trees that provided an
absolutely breathtaking view of the valley below…
I crossed an open field and saw a few hikers resting in the
warm sun. I slowed to speak to them briefly before tossing the deuces up to
North Carolina…
After leaving the field… it’s basically a long +2000ft
descent for the final 4.5ish miles down to US 19E. I passed a group of hikers
and flashed a smile as I steadily made my way to the bottom. When I got to the
US 19E trailhead… I sat on a rock, unwrapped a Clif Bar and made conversation
with a backpacker who was waiting on his friend. I sloshed my pack to see if I
actually needed to head over to the creek or to the Mountain Harbour Hostel to
refill my water supply. I started with 1.5 liters of water in my bladder and a
small 12oz soft flask of Clif Bar electrolyte mix and hadn’t really drunk much
of anything the entire morning because the temps had been so pleasant. I
decided I didn’t need to refill and started my return trip. The climb up from
US 19E was long but beautiful…
I eventually arrived at the field leading to the Doll Flats…
I stopped for a few minutes at the Doll Flats to soak in one
last view…
The colors were insanely beautiful along the Appalachian Trail at this time of year...
I left the woods and hopped a fence that I vaguely remember
from the previous trip… maybe because I was somewhere lost in my mind on Planet
Baldia…
My eyes and heart grew bigger as I started ascending Big
Hump…
What was a blanketed foreign country earlier… was now a
beautiful and inviting mountain top…
I quickly passed a group of hikers that I had met on the way
down to US 19E. They gave me a few cheers and wished me a safe journey for my
return trip. I snapped a quick picture of the same plaque that was covered in
clouds before leaving them to a peaceful picnic spot.
I was awestruck as I started descending Big Hump…
I was so thankful and excited that the clouds gave way to
these unbelievable views on my return trip! I cruised down Big Hump staring at
Little Hump that I would soon be climbing. But what really blew my mind was in
the far distance (it is hard to pick up on camera) I could actually see the
balds I had traveled earlier that morning and could almost follow my route back
to where I was currently standing. The Roan Highlands is simply an incredible
experience.
I took one final look back up Big Hump before heading back
into the woods to retrace my steps up to Little Hump…
Little Hump was CROWDED so I didn’t slow up. I tapped the
top and headed back into the woods. At some point… I took a wrong step, landed
weird, and jarred my back. I took a few more steps and was in some slight
discomfort. I stopped on a wider part of the trail and laid down to do some
yoga type stretches. The discomfort went away and I started the steep descent
with a beautifully clear view of the Overland Shelter down in the valley below.
I was stopped by a backpacking couple on my descent.
Strangely… I felt like I knew the guy…
Backpacker: “You
heading from 19?”
Me: “Yep. On my
return trip to Carver’s.”
Backpacker: “Nice! We do an out and back group run out here
every year!” Me: “Man you look really familiar… did you run Pitchell back in 2013?”
Backpacker: “YEA! You know Adam Hill?”
Me: “Yea! I remember your face so clearly bro. We met on top
of Pinnacle!”
Muhammad formally introduced himself and we briefly chatted.
The WNC guys really know how to do it right… cool community up there. We parted ways and I started back upwards
towards the balds.
Sleep depravity came full circle in the next 2 miles. I felt
like a walking zombie. I wasn’t tired in a physical sense… my legs still felt
great and had a lot of pep… but I was just sleepy. I continued to zombie along
until a runner came up behind me and scared me back to life.
“$h*&!!!!”
We both laughed and each apologized as he continued bounding
up the incline. Needless to say… I was no longer sleepy. I caught a second
wind by the time I got up to the turn for Grassy Bald Ridge. I counted 12
people in route up to Grassy Bald Ridge which immediately deterred me and sent
me southbound towards Carver’s. By the time I passed over Jane Bald I had
already passed more people in minutes than I had seen all day…
Looking south towards Roan Moantain… Round Bald no longer appeared to be a bald
but a giant ant hill covered in brightly dressed ants in North Face jackets. Other
than a race scenario… I couldn’t recall another time I had ever seen this
amount of people outside hiking and enjoying nature. It made my heart happy to
see so many people taking advantage of their body’s abilities and the area they
live in.
7hrs13mins, 29 miles and 7500ft vertical gain later… I made
it back to the starting point. The traverse was everything I hoped it would be... a simple, beautiful, relaxing morning in the mountains.
I went horizontal in Hotel de Andrews for a quick 15 min nap
before my stomach started growling. Under the cover of colorful autumn
leaves and a light rain… I headed down off the mountain into Elizabethtown for
some grub.
I started back south in search of the next place to
camp/run… but during the zombie walk of mile 25… I’m pretty sure my body made the
decision it wanted to go home for a good night’s sleep. I texted the wifey and
said I was making the long drive back. It was the right decision. It was
extremely nice having a hot shower, a warm bed and some snuggle time with Kati
and Wobbles.
October 25
Sleeping in, a good breakfast and lots of coffee confirmed
that the coming home decision was the right one! Kati had plans with one of her
friend’s to head down to a festival… so I headed out to Oak Mountain for a
short run…
And a whiskey nap at one of my favorite spots in the park…
I even made it back to the house in time to tag along on
Kati’s last mile of her evening run…
Run long, run wild, and howl loudly!
